The great champagnes of Cedric Bouchard
I’ve been a huge fan of Cedric Bouchard’s Wines since their initial release. He makes refined, pure, vinous champagnes that, to my taste, reach for the peak of what champagne can be.
Gen and I joined Ian Westcott (the Australian importer) for a tasting in Cedric’s cellar at Celles-sur-Ource in the Aube, southern Champagne. Cedric is young, enthusiastic, happy to part with information in detail. Unlike many of renowned next-generation vignerons, he doesn’t try and cultivate an aura of mystery or a sense of madness. Rather, he’s a very normal Frenchman who has managed to find the right patch of soil and, through hard work, make the vines on it sing.
There are two labels produced by Cedric, Inflorescence and Roses de Jeanne. In total, between three and nine wines might be made each year. Cedric’s philosophy is simple: work as close to organic as the region allows, limit yields, produce a single wine from a single set of vines, in a single style, from a single vintage, without adulteration. To this end, he does not chaptilise, he does not add a dosage and he does not acidify. No wine is a multi vintage blend, but only some wines carry a vintage on the label. From 2010, all wines will indicate vintage (either on the front label or back label), the date of disgorgement and other details of the production process.
At most six wines are made in the traditional sparkling style. Cedric is currently making three still wines as well, although these have not been released as yet. The goal is experimentation, learning more about the process of growing vines and making wine, and the potential of the soil and the vines which grow in it.
The sparkling wines are made entirely in tank. Some of the still wines see oak (the barrels come from Tonnellerie Rousseau, in Gevrey-Chambertin).
There are two vineyards. Les Ursules is a vineyard of old (by the standard of Champagne) pinot noir vines, planted in 1974. The second vineyard was planted in 2002. Only 1.3 hectares are under production.
Now, to the wines:
Inflorescence (2007 vintage) Almost germanic in it’s fruit purity. The surprise here is the lift of sweet fruit that just explodes out of the glass. It’s like no champagne you’ve ever had. The palate is just what you’d expect, a core of sweet melon, grape and lemon peel. The wine is dry but seems sweet, because the fruit is so ripe. However, the cleansing acidity keeps it from seeming at all heavy. I’m struck by the great balance of the wine, and its fine, elegant mousse. Excellent. From experience, I’d say that this will drink well now but will look excellent by 2014. This is based on drinking the earliest of Cedric’s wines, none of which have peaked yet.
Inflorescence La Parcelle Blanc de Noirs (2002 vintage) This wine was not made by Cedric. It was bought from the same person from whom Cedric bought the vineyard that makes Inflorescence now. While negotiating the purchase, Cedric was able to taste the wine made from vineyard. He was so impressed with the wine, he decided to buy the stock of 2002 vintage wine from the owner. This wine is a study in terroir: while it did not have the same structure as the previous wine, the fruit was so similar, lots of melon, a hint of wax, grape juice, really pure and unadulterated. It’s showing no real sign of development other than integration. Will go at least another 10 years.
Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules Blanc de Noirs (2007 vintage) Very tight and minerally upon opening and slightly reduced. Cedric recommends decanting for 15 minutes at this age and drinking at 14 degrees Celsius. With time, the reductive aromas dissipate and the wine presents very minerally and refined. The palate is a study in balance, beautiful acid, never too jarring, perfect for a table wine. After an hour, the wine has more red fruit character to the nose. Will be very good but needs several years to unwind.
Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs Haut-Lemblée 2005 Extremely nervous and smokey upon opening. Hard to believe that this is made from vines planted in 2002, it just shouldn’t be possible! The minerality is also amazing, and a testament to the care that is taken in the vineyard, forcing the vines to dig deep into the soil. After thirty minutes the wine is much bigger and richer, the minerality in the background behind candied lemon and fried mango aromas. Will be very good in time.
Roses de Jeanne La Bolorée 2005 A unique wine, made from old Pinot Blanc vines. The nose is explosive and exceptionally minerally, smokey and concentrated, like a great Alsacian Pinot Blanc. The palate is a revelation, amazing intensity of flavour with a striking acidity which seems to give the wine a crystalline texture. The wine finishes very dry and even salty. Amazing.
Roes de Jeanne Rosé de Saignée 2005 Wow! Simply put, the most amazing rosé champagne to ever pass my lips. If you didn’t see the colour, you’d be forgiven for thinking this a top quality whole cluster fermented red Burgundy. The nose is staggeringly complex, floral notes, five spice, red berries, particularly red currant. The palate is stemmy, of amazing balance, power and finesse. Absolutely without parallel for me. As I have said, the best rosé and one of the best champagnes I’ve ever drunk. I couldn’t take the smile off my face all day.
Obviously, these are wines of extremely high quality. Production is less than 15,000 bottles a year, which is tiny for Champagne.
Six of the above pallets constitute 2008’s production. Unfortunately, the wines have been found by international critics, such as Antonio Galloni, who writes for Robert Parker, all of whom seem to have recognised the outstanding quality of the wine. This means that the wines are now imported to 30 different countries, including Kazakhstan. This means that Cedric’s wines will have to stay a rare treat for lovers of great champagne.
