Pierre Overnoy and wild asparagus
The wines of Maison Overnoy are nearly unique in many ways. Firstly, they’re amongst the greatest wines being produced in the formerly well known and now near forgotten region of Jura. Secondly, they have inspired a revolution in French natural wine making, particularly in Champagne. Third, they’re very accessible and relatively inexpensive, given their cult status — even if that status only extends as far as French wine makers.
The wines are made, since 1999, by Emmanuel Houillon. He has continued the traditions of the estate and the wines continue to be of the same high quality. As with most whites of Jura, oxidative wine making is employed here to produce whites which can be extremely long lived, with aromas rarely seen in wine.
Both the following wines are made from Chardonnay.
Maison Pierre Overnoy Arbois-Pupillin 2001 The nose on this remained a little yeasty and unattractive. The palate was better but the finish a little sour. Regardless, there was an attractive complexity to the palate with saw dust, almond, preserved lemon and anise.
Maison Pierre Overnoy Arbois-Pupillin 2002 Wow! Explosively complex nose, extremely savoury and spicy with a hint of salt water too it, as you would see in Manzanilla. The palate is fine and elegant, crystalline in texture, gastronomic! So well adapted to food! The finish is something to behold: endless. An excellent wine.
A food pairing suggestion: wild asparagus omelette.
To prepare: obtain 100 grammes of asparagus for each person. Remove the hard inedible base. Cut the rest into three centimetre long batons. Steam for a few minutes, until tender. For me, the wild asparagus has a spicy aroma of green capsicum after this.
Prepare a proper french omelette. Melt a few knobs of butter in a pan on a strong heat. Once the butter has foamed but before it burns pour in two lightly stirred and seasoned eggs. Be careful to not whip the eggs. This is enough:
Move the egg around in the skillet. You want to make sure the egg mixture touching the skillet is well lubricated with butter. This should not take long, 30 seconds. Add the asparagus. Turn the heat off and shake the omelette to one edge. Turn on to a plate and serve.
