Dinner at Bistro Ortolan
Bistro Ortolan, in Leichhardt, was recently promoted to two hats. My previous experiences of the restaurant didn’t warrant such a standing so it was time to see what had changed.
Fred wanted us to take a look at a few vintages of Remoissenet, the producer he imports into Australia.
We started with a Champagne Milan Cuvée Symphorine 2002, a blanc de blancs. An easy drinking aperitif style, not for aging. Popular at the table but I didn’t like the peculiar asparagus/green edge — in 2002!
We moved on to a Remoissenet Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru 2005. This wine showed the ripe character of 2005, open, showing nicely now, cloves, cinnamon, lemon peel, elegant compared to 2005 whites I’ve seen.
The Remoissenet Corton-Charlemagne 2005 was obviously of the same vintage: ripe, developed by Remoissenet standards, but with a beautiful blend of spice (high quality oak), resin, salt spray, preserved lemon, grapefruit pith. The palate is much more structured than the Meursault. Should go a long time.
The Remoissenet Corton-Charlemagne 2002 was quite reduced. Structurally, the wine showed the riper character of the vintage. Some said that the sulfur blew off but not on my glass. Wait.
With these wines my entrée of Hervey Bay scallops with veal sweet breads arrived. The quality of this dish was very high, the scallops and veal offal handled with immense care. The scallops were well suited to the minerally character of Corton-Charlemagne, the Meursault seemed more structured with food.
The Remoissenet Corton-Charlemagne 2001 had a hint of reduction about it but showed a little development which indicates how these wines mature: a touch of vanilla, cream, but still spicy and with that characteristic Remoissenet austerity.
The Remoissenet Corton-Charlemagne 2000 was also quite reductive. This reduction problem is not something I’ve noticed on Remoissenet’s wines before. It could be a coincidence or it could be that in the early 2000s, Remoissenet wanted to make sure they suffered no oxidation problems. Unlike randox though, I am not concerned about these wines for the long term, the reduction will slowly dissipate and will ensure that these wines can go a very long time. I’ve definitely had better bottles of the 2000 though.
It was time to move on to the reds. We commenced with a beautiful wine, the Remoissenet Beaune Marconnets 1er Cru 2005. This showed a classic character of 2005 reds: lip smacking acidity, rich forest fruit compote, long, highly structured finish. A really delicious wine.
The Remoissenet Beaune Bressandes 1er Cru 2005 was much less concentrated and certainly less showy. It was a shy wine, a little spice and fruit. On the palate, you could see the 2005 acidity, but it was well and truly shown up by the Marconnets.
A Robert Groffier Gevrey-Chambertin 2005 found fans. The nose was almost anti-2005: very savoury, spicy, earthy, traditional. The palate was amazingly powerful for village: blind, some said it must be Grand Cru! Certainly, it had Premier/Grand Cru style power and length. Very interesting.
With this, I ate a delicious mushroom ravioli. The earthy aromas of the mushrooms were perfect with the Groffier.
The J.F. Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru 2005 was another example of a great 2005 red. The palate is so succulent and amazing, the structure sublime. This bottle was less showy than I’ve had before but still shows the amazing potential of this great wine.
A really enjoyable night, great food that certainly pushes into two hat territory. Service was a little chaotic, but friendly. Set menu was $85.
