Champagne part IV – Collin, Laherte
Feeling a bit under the weather after some mild food poisoning the day before, I skipped a tasting appointment at Legras and caught up on some sleep.
Domaine Collin
After lunch, it was time to visit a protégé and former apprentice of Anselme Selosse: Olivier Collin at Congy. I’ve met passionate wine makers but Olivier was something else: his piercing blue eyes, big smile… he reminded me of Eric Idle in Life of Brian.
Olivier talking terroir
An expression we saw a lot of chez Collin
Olivier insisted taking us around the vines. His latest vineyard acquisition was limestone with scilex/onyx dispersed through it. He farms using bio-dynamic methods and has insanely low yields for Champagne, just 30hl/ha.
Olivier has been making wine for years but his first under the name Champagne Collin is from 2004 fruit. Before we got to look at one of these, we have to taste pretty much every barrel of vin clair he had. The wines were very Burgundian, extremely fragrant from the addition of fine lees with excellent acidity. 2007 will be a good year for Collin. He is also keeping something of a solera for reserve wine, after Selosse.
Olivier has two barrel stores: one in a shed at ground level and another in the cave deep under ground. The barrels in the shed, exposed to the temperature variations of the day, were much more oxidative and round. Barrels of the same wine in the cave were more steely and fine. Olivier is doing this intentionally to add complexity.
Happily, he has a huge cave ready to be filled with future cuvées.
It was time to taste a few wines a little closer to being finished. We started with two wines which had not yet been disgorged. Olivier undertook the business of removing the plug of yeast:
The 2006 rosé, made exclusively from Pinot Noir, had a rich, yeasty nose (expected for a non-disgorged bottle). The palate had a great structure and very long, complex finish. A Blanc de Blancs showed similar structure, but presented the complexity of judging unfinished wine.
The Ulysse Collin Extra Brut was bone dry with a rich and complex nose. I saw coffee, preserved lemon, unripe strawberries and grass. An intriguing palate, big, with oak influence. The effect of Selosse on the fruit profile is clear although structurally the wine is very different to that house. The acid is high, maybe in need of a bit of dosage. The finish was tannic and extremely dry. (I drank this wine again a week later, and I feel that it showed much better.)
We discussed the very high acidity and Olivier fetched a ‘brut’. This had just 0.5 grams residual sugar, which doesn’t actually make it a brut. Generally, brut wines have 5 to (gulp) 15 grams residual per litre. The Ulysse Collin Brut was very similar to the extra brut but seemingly more acidic — strange. The tannic finish I found hard in the previous wine was no longer there. Both wines would benefit from two or three more years aging.
I think Olivier will continue to make very good wine. After a few vintages, maybe great wine.
Laherte Frères and dinner
We took the slow route back to Chavot in preparation for dinner with Aurelien Laherte and some of his friends – as well as a few platters of sushi and a swag of bottles.
We commenced with the Brut Tradition (60%M, 30%C, 10%P). This wine is mostly from 2005 with 30% coming from reserve wine. The nose showed smokey oak influence but was a little closed. The palate had a good structure and held the 7 grams residual sugar well. Fine as entry level wines go.
The Blanc de Blancs came from older vines, ideally situated mid slop. Again, mostly 2005 but with reserve wine. The wine was matured in old foudres. The nose, clean, citrusy, youthful. The palate had lots of refreshing acidity. Only some parts of the cuvée underwent malo, which explains that nature of the acidity. Still young.
The 2004 Pinot Meunier is a vintage wine made from older vines. It is matured in old barrels, without malo. It is interesting to see pure Pinot Meunier because it shows an aromatic profile rarely seen. The wine was meaty but with an aroma like candied roses. The acid was superb. A really good, cleansing aperitif wine. Aurelien and his friends talked about Pinot Meunier extensively. Wines made from the grape, they say, mature faster than those made from the other noble varieties but the wines made are nonetheless interesting. Buying wines made from Meunier allow you to have a wine which will drink at its peak sooner.
Next we tried the very good Laherte Rosé, made again from Meunier. For me, this is one of the best Pinot Meunier wines I tasted in Champagne and it seems the rosé style really suits the grape. The nose was earthy, very primary, strawberries and cream. The palate had a great, refreshing quality which makes it ideal for summer consumption I think. Great for immediate drinking.
At table, with insane quantities of cheese
Many bottles were consumed but one real standout was the Diebolt-Vallois Cuvée Prestige Blanc de Blancs 1997. This wine was beginning to show some nutty complexity, with a streak of cream and vanilla. The palate was gorgeous, a sublime structure, just amazing for the year. It shows that 1997, for some in the Côte de Blancs, is superb. The wine prepared us well for the next day’s tasting, chez Diebolt-Vallois.
