Raymond Boulard Petraea XCVII-MMIV
Raymond Boulard is a successful grower/producer in Champagne, North of Reims. His wines are quite popular in Australia with lovers of growers Champagne.
The Raymond Boulard Petraea XCVII – MMIV is a multi-vintage Champagne made from wine of each vintage between 1997 and 2004, inclusive. It is made via a solera method, the same used to make sherry. It is the same method Jacques Selosse uses to make the Cuvée Substance.
Despite the advice on the bottle to serve this at 10C, I found this initially too cold and reticent on the nose. I let it warm up and, although it remained what nervous, it showed a range of exciting aromas for a Champagne: roasted almonds, candied ginger, a hint of lavender, all spice, violets. The palate was well structured with a fine mousse and good acidity. This was only disgorged in July and I’d like to see it with considerably more age, maybe 4 or 5 years in bottle. The reason is, the wine was anxious and it I think that time will allow it to harmonise and tell its story more completely.
The most impressive thing here is that Chrisian Boulard has done something very special with some very challenging vintages. I want to try and find a Petraea including great vintages like 96, 95 and 90 — if such a wine exists. I hope to visit soon so we’ll see!
