Christmas tasting at Bosetti
I also went to Bosetti in the Marais for a tasting. There was a great lineup for Christmas.
Domaine François Lamarche (Vosne-Romanée)
A special treat, Madame Lamarche was in attendance to poor and talk about wine. A real character, very Burgundian, with a son working in IT in Sydney.
This domaine is an interesting one. They have enviable plots of land in Vosne-Romanée, including La Grande Rue which is right next to Romanée-Conti on one side and La Tâche on the other. It is popular sport to criticise the wines of this domaine, I think because they do not reach the stupendous heights of those vineyards around it. I’ve been lucky enough to have a few good examples of La Grande Rue, particularly the 2001, and think that the main difference between Lamarche and its neighbours comes down to style.
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2005
Elegant creamy nose that I’ve seen on other 2005s. The palate has an intriguing texture, more like a Beaune, light but powerful. In the background there is a little oak and something wild, a character of the Hautes-Côtes. This is impressive for a wine of the appellation and I like it.
Vosne-Romanée 2005
Quite a peculiar nose: there’s the typical Vosne spiciness and violets in the background but it is quite earthy, a little atypical for 2005. The palate has the same texture as the Hautes-Côtes and it’s the most impressive thing to me: it is structured and drying, there isn’t the feeling of extract there that I see on other 2005s. Again, like a Beaune wine. I quite liked this too and purchased some.
Les Chaumes 1er Cru 2005
Much richer, a clear step up. More of the aromas of 2005, fresh blackberries with their crunch of acid and juicy liquor. That slight hint of herbs. The palate is quite oaky, but shows characteristics of Vosne, soy in particular. Lots of fine grape tannin.
La Grande Rue 2005
This wine is ready for business now. The nose is pure, refined, in harmony, very confident. It is the smell of violets on a summer breeze, framed by oak and spice. The palate is in the same style as the other wines, not very extracted, at first it seems too light in weight but then you feel a power rising in your mouth. After swallowing, it remains. As you take a breath, your nose feels with the spicy after taste of this wine. A good wine which will reward cellaring. I like it.
Cuilleron (Northern Rhône)
This is a popular producer in Australia. In the past, I haven’t been all that impressed with their wine but I liked what I saw at the tasting.
Syrah 2006 VDP
Mulberry nose, typical aroma of fatness I associate with entry level Syrah. The palate is supple with good structure. Fine as an entry level wine, under 8 euros.
Saint Joseph “Pierres Sèches” 2005
Pleasant nose, quite fruit driven. Well structured, quite nervous but should be good in 5 years.
Saint Joseph “Serines” 2005
Massive step up, rich, juicy, great complexity. Lots of fine, drying tannin on the palate. Superb wine. Needs extended cellaring, maybe 10 years.
Côte-Rotie “Madinière” 2005
The fruit for this is from the Côte Brune. Beautiful nose of mulberry, a hint of coffee, chalk and a touch of apricot which suggests viognier — even though the bottle says 100% Syrah. The palate is gorgeous, open for business, generous, lots of fine tannin. Drinking well now but will be great in 5 years I think.
I loved it so much, I bought some, and opened a bottle the second I got home. Immensely pleasurable to drink, didn’t change the whole night but every sip was beautiful. The balance to the palate make it a great wine for drinking with food.
Condrieu “La Petite Côte” 2006
Pleasant nose of pineapple and mandarin. The palate just isn’t there, oily and hard going. Not my style.
Condrieu “Chaillets” 2006
Massive step up, complex and powerful nose, the palate is structured and beautiful, a strong flavour of pink lady apples. If you want to see what Condrieu is about, try this one (unfortunately, very expensive, probably retail for $120 or so in Australia).
Château Myrat (Sauternes)
Myrat is popular in France and in Australia too for their immensely affordable Sauternes. In France, a bottle retails for a mere 30 euros. For me, the wines have, year in year out, an honesty and frankness to them which is endearing.
I tasted the 2003 at Le Grand Tasting recently and was looking forward to comparing it to a few others. I was very pleased with what I saw.
Myrat 2005
Rich with botrytis but not over done, spicy. The palate has excellent structure, not too sweet, pleasant refreshing acid. This is what Sauternes is about. Great now, will go a long way though.
Myrat 2003
The sweetness of that year. For me, the sweetness wants some acidity but it is a personal preference. An early drinking style but a pleasing example of good wine made in 2003.
Myrat 1999
Already showing a hint of amber in the bottle, Myrat have done a great job for a more difficult year in Sauternes. The nose is smoky, burnt sugar, apricot jam. Superb structure on the palate, beautiful refreshing acidity. Great to drink now as it shows both primary and secondary character. Worth seeking out if you want a Sauternes which shows complexity but which isn’t too expensive (a mere 29 euros retail).
Myrat 1997
A beautiful nose, the aroma of quince being poached. Adorable, spicy. Good structure, great to drink now but will look good in 5 more years.
I bought wines from the whole Myrat range, I was so impressed by the value for money here.
After this, I was directed down stairs where a representative from Lheraud (in Cognac) was opening up some old bottles.
Cognac Petite Champagne 30 year old blend
Spicy nose, very fine. Round palate, dry and long. The approachable style of a blended Cognac.
Cognac Grande Champagne 1969
Very powerful and fine nose. Elegant palate, controlled power.
Cognac Petite Champagne 1973
Very oaky and strong, phenolic palate. Lacks the elegance of the previous Cognac.
Cognac Fine Bois 1978
Deliciously pure and refined nose, round on the mouth with a nutty finish.
Cognac Borderies 1975
Quite volatile, barely restrained power.
Bas Armagnac 1988
Very oaky but round, harmonious palate.
Bas Armagnac 1978
Elegant style, powerful but refined. Impressive.
Bas Armagnac 1968
More integrated, showing complexity I haven’t seen on brandy before, almond, spice, leather, hemp.
Vieil Armagnac 1958
Very supple and pure, harmonious. Beginning to look more like aged whiskey.
Vieil Armagnac 1948
Very fine, pure aromas, complex but subtle. Long powerful finish in the mouth.
Vieil Armagnac 1918
Beyond brandy, not much volatility, lots of aroma: straw, hemp, cedar, five spice. The palate is round, rich, pleasant. You don’t want the taste to end. Unfortunately, at 1200 euros per bottle, I doubt I’ll be having another taste.
