A weeks worth
Rimauresq Cru Classélanc 2006 (Cotes de Provence) I wanted to drink something different. I was hoping this was going to be different from all the other awful Provence Blanc I’ve had. It was but not enough. The nose was lifted, grassy, floral. The smell of summer (in Provence). But on the palate, it was flat, lifeless and hard going. Suitable as an aperitif wine but not made for food. I’ll have to try the Rouge.
Henriot 1996 Beautiful champagne showing some development. Sherbet, honey spectrum of Champagne, suggesting lots of Chardonnay. Piercing acidity characteristic of this year, had to be consumed with food. Long, complex. Delicious. Best value for money Champagne I’ve ever had. I’ll try the ’98 soon. Both are $40 retail in Paris — Moet Imperial is $10 more expensive!
Domaine Jamet 1995 Consumed at Willi’s in Paris, where I ran into Patrick Walsh of CellarHand. Small world. Beautiful wine, a pointe. Lifted floral, white peach, cherry notes. Over three hours, more spice, game, dried ham. The palate, superb. Beautifully structured and delicious. Went great with the lamb at Willis.
Pieurée St-Jean de Béan (Coteaux de Languedoc) 2004 This wine probably ranks second only to Mas de Daumas Gassac among the upstart Grand Vins of the South. Mourvedre vines from Tempier and Grenache from ancient vines in Priorat, if memory serves correct. Lots of complexity on the nose with juicy raspberry and cherry, savory, spicy chocolate and an earthy complexity. The palate, however, is kind of boring and unstructured. Good but nothing on the fabulous ‘98 and ’00 I’ve had. Perhaps it will come together but I don’t think so. I’ll try a ’96 soon.
Toques et Clochers Occursus Rouge 2000 (VdP Haute Valléde l’Aude) Another upstart. This one has more grapes varieties in it than I have fingers. Being vin de pays, there’s no restriction on what grape varieties can be used. The producer has chosen popular New World varieties and not ones often planted in the South: the full Cabernet family (Sauvignon, Franc, Merlot), Malbec, Grenache, Syrah, … The nose is at once New and Old world. It has the clean purity of the New with the savoriness and restraint of the Old. I guess it reminded me of, say, a poor man’s Bolgheri. To me, though, in the mouth there is a lack of structure — like I saw on the Béan. Without great structure (such as Daumas Gassac has year in year out) these wines just don’t give enough pleasure to justify being four to eight times the price of their neighbours.
I think I’m finished with Languedoc now (except Daumas Gassac). Where to next? I’m thinking Chateauneuf Blanc but.. that’s an expensive habit.
There was also a Perrin “nature” Cotes du Rhone 2004. This is produced by the Perrin family (Chateau Beaucastel). This, the nature CdR, is made entirely from organic fruit (Grenache and Syrah). A good, clean wine. About as good as CdR can and should be. That said, not really all that interesting — just “wine”.
On the pricey side: most CdR is 4 or 5 euros. This is 12. I think I like the Janasse CdR better. It costs about 8,5 euros.
